The Mountain, the Bibbed Buddha, and Everything Geothermic

It’s official I am trapped in a perpetual state of joy and wonder that is thankfully balanced by extreme exhaustion. If I didn’t collapse on to my bed by midnight every day my heart would surely explode out of pure wonder. This weekend my entire class went to Japan’s first national park, Unzen. The town of Unzen is built right below a Geothermic (word of the day, kids) Sulfur Spring. This means that scalding hot naturally heated sulfur water is constantly pumping through the drains of this small mountain town. This circulation of heated water give the town a very T.S. Elliot like feel as yellow white smoke curls around most of the buildings hiding Shinto gates, friendly cats, and fruit vendors. We stayed in a very nice hotel that has harnessed the water from the hot springs and pumps it into their huge bathhouse. Naturally this water, having a high concentration of sulfur, smells like . . . farts. In truth the whole town had a slight sulfur stink. I loved this weekend despite all that.

We started the trip with a much needed venture into the wilderness. Unzen is also home to one of Japan’s live volcanoes. The mountain we climbed is right next to this smoking, smoldering, heap of volcanic ash which is clearly and ominously visible from the top. The hike was a rather intense lesson in Mother Nature’s ability to create breathtaking, magnificent, ass-kicking landscapes. Most of the hiking was up hill and joyously physically challenging (I’ve been craving physical activity). There are many things I could say about breathtaking views after hours of climbing rocky, ankle turning, “steps” that led up to the summit, but none of those words seem to do it justice. The climb was simply everything I’d hoped to do in Japan. During my adventure I came across two Buddhas wearing bibs, overlooking the surrounding harbor and rice fields, a view of a rippling field of tall golden wheat like grass, and a freezing wind swept mountain top whose rocks have seen thousands upon thousands of faces come and go. After this epic five-hour hike, we raced back to the hotel, and slipped into comfortable mint green pajamas. The next two hours were spent talking about how unbelievably nice it is to sit in a warm room filled with steam and scalding water after freezing our buns off on the windy mountain decent.

One thing to know is that when the Japanese go to these bathhouses their goal is to take as many baths as possible during their overnight stay. It is common for most Japanese visitors to take upwards of 5 baths in one stay. Thus, the bathhouse stays open 23 hours a day. I find myself again at a loss for words to describe the joy of eating a simple and clean meal of baked salmon with miso soup, jasmine rice, and an assortment of pickles that look nothing like anything most western pallets would consider edible (all of them were delicious). All of this served with green tea and cold water, and just after dinner you return to the soothing hot waters for another soak. Then up to my culture professor’s room for a drink of Japanese Whiskey (they don’t make it very well) and down to the karaoke bar for fun with friends who sing just as bad as or worse than me. After a two A.M. round three of hot spring goodness, I crashed happily into my bed.


A quick note on my sleep in Japan. I don’t think I have ever slept so well for a month straight. No restless nights since the jetlag wore off.

The next day came and we were back on the bus and pulling away from the cool mountain air and smiling faces of the waving hotel staff (that’s right, the hotel staff comes out to wave goodbye to all their guests). We stopped at the actual geothermic geyser sight on our way out of town. This was a strange vision of a sci-fi moonscape combined with a Brazil- (the movie) esque piping system that runs the naturally heated water all through the town. It was great for taking pictures but hard on the nostrils.

I’m sorry, this post feels completely scatterbrained in comparison to the incredibly clear sensation I had while I was in the moment. I guess it goes to show that even though you write down your experiences and try to put emotions into words sometimes certain moments are simply indescribable. I can’t convey just how magical this weekend was but I hope that my pictures and these words give all those who can’t experience this with me a glimpse into my experience. Again I’ve posted everything on Flickr, and hope all is well with my friends and family.

Till next time.